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we're going to accommodate for that hinge by using half of the foam thickness in our situation that's one inch to calculate the length of the plate take the length measurements from the back and the seat that's a and B then add the thickness of the foam next add one inch for seam allowance and finally add half the thickness of the foam for the hinge area this is the total length of the fabrics top plate let's plug in the calculations for our particular cushion 30 plus 20 plus 2 inches for the foam thickness plus 1 inch for seam allowance and plus 1 inch for the hinge equals 54 inches now that we have the length measurement we need the width measurement we measured across the foam and it was 22 inches we need to take that which we're referring to as see in this illustration and add the thickness of the foam our foam was 2 inches then we need to add a 1 inch seam allowance and that is the width of our plate this hinged cushion will have a top plate and a bottom plate we've already determined the top plate now we can take those measurements and determine the bottom plate all we need to do is add the width of the zipper since there will be two zippers we need to multiply that times two and that is the length of the bottom plate the width is the same after these calculations we can now cut the top plate and the bottom plate to this size though your chair will likely be a different size the calculations required for your chair are done exactly the same way as what was shown in this text when measuring the thickness of your foam if it's wrapped in a batting you want to include that in your measurements for your thickness here you can see it's three and a half inches when slightly compressed and if you only have batting on the top side you need to take that in consideration here it looks like about two and a half inches when it's compressed with those measurements in hand we can now go to the fabric and measure on the fabric the appropriate size for the top plate and 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to install the zippers in the bottom plate earlier we use the size of the foam to determine the size at the bottom plate to be cut plus a few calculations we're now going to take the size of the foam in our application one piece is thirty inches in length and the other is twenty inches in length and we're going to use those measurements to determine where the zipper should be placed from the top edge we'll measure down 30 inches and from the bottom edge we'll measure up 20 inches the exact length of our foam to be used angela has already made those measurements on this the bottom plate and that she strikes a line across those measurements she's going to cut the fabric on top of those two lines with the sailrite edge hotknife the end result our bottom plate is now three separate sections we're going to take the seat portion and that middle panel we're going to place the middle panel on the bottom and the seat on top so the outside surfaces are facing each other next we'll take a YKK 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other and we'll sew the other half of the zipper onto the middle section notice now that the teeth are facing down and the middle sections fabric the good side is facing up and she's being careful to line up the edge of the zipper with the edge of the fabric as she sews that assembly down the stitch is approximately 1/8 inch to a quarter inch away from the zippers teeth you'll notice that the presser foot is the guide it's running alongside the zipper teeth that's keeping the stitch consistent as with any sewing project it's a good idea to reverse to lock your stitch in place the beginning of your stitching and at the end as shown we're not quite done we're going to be doing a top stitch as well but prior to doing that let's join that midsection to the back section if your fabric has a pattern be sure the patterns are being lined up appropriately we've placed the middle section and the seat section on top of the back panel and the outside surfaces are facing each other we'll take that 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second corner and coming up the long edge watch here she goes over the zipper she does it slowly and carefully we've sewn around the perimeter but we have not soin at the top we've left that open because we're going to be installing an optional pillow if you do not install the optional pillow you'll need to sew the top closed as well here's what that pillow will look like when we're finished it can lay in front or it can be flipped back let's show you how to build it on some of the leftover fabric we'll measure up 3 inches and strike a line down the length of the fabric we want this flange to be the width of our foam plus a little extra for seam allowance our width of our foam is 22 inches so we're going to make two strips that are 23 inches one inch extra we'll cut those out with the sailrite edge hotknife once those two strips are cut out we'll use double-sided tape and base the two short edges so that we can base those two together so the outside surfaces will be face seeing each other I would recommend remeasuring this at this point we do not want it to be wider than the foam our foam is 22 inches so 21 or 20 inches is completely acceptable so you need to make modifications if you find this to be wider than the actual foam we're going to turn this assembly right side out and we're going to top stitch it together we'll do that to the other end as well we're not going to show that next we're going to go back to the cover remember we left the top portion of the cover open we're going to insert this strip inside the cover so that its bottom edge is flush with the top edge of the cover then we're going to take it back to the sewing machine and complete our sewing of the top edge so we're just starting here on the long edge coming around the corner and then we'll sew through that strip to secure it in place as we close the cover up completely angela did not use basting tape when she placed this strip inside the cover you may want to do that that's why she's being very careful to make sure that the strip is laying directly in the edge so that it is flush with the covers edges she'll sew all the way across the top and down to the side where she stopped sewing previously and that secures the flange inside the cover let's go ahead and create the pillow as well as the flange here she's just being sure the edge of the fabric is straight so she's using some leftover fabric again and here she's trying to match up the pattern so that they look good and now that she's happy with the pattern she's going to measure out a pillow to determine the unfinished width of the pillow we need to go back to our calculations for the width of the plate in our circumstance our calculation is equal 25 inches so we need the width of this pillow to be 25 inches times 2 because we're going to fold it in half the height is not too critical we're going to go with 13 inches but that's totally up to preference depending on how large you want the pillow to be we'll now take this over to the sewing machine and sew around the perimeter the two short edges and the top edge will leave the bottom edge completely open even though there's a fold on one of the two short edges we're still going to sew a 1/2 inch away from the folded edge and the raw edge and we're using that deluxe magnetic guide as a guide to keep our stitch a half inch away from the edge of the fabric all right we'll continue selling leaving the bottom open now we'll trim off the dog ears on all four of the corners even at the open edge at the bottom we rounded that off as well by sewing a gradual radius instead of just a straight line all the way down there is a gradual radius at all four of the corners and we trim the dog ears off with the sailrite edge hotknife turn the assembly right-side out and then we're going to use batting as the stuffing for the inside of this pillow so she's using that fabric pillow cover to trace around the batting and using a sharpie marker to mark on the batting material notice the batting does not go all the way to the bottom because that's where it'll be sewing onto the flange we created earlier you can cut batting easily with scissors she's going to make two thicknesses of batting because we want the pillow to be a little bit thicker she's going to use a spray 77 by 3m super spray 77 is called to baste the batting together or glue the batting together though that is not necessary if you don't have the glue don't worry about it stuff it inside the pillow cover and then use double-sided tape to baste the bottom edge of the cover not shut but to create a hymn so basting tapes been applied to this side we're going to turn the pillow over and apply basting tape to the opposite side and then we're going to create approximately a half inch hem making it look good the basting tape will hold the hem in place while we take the pillow over to the flange we sewed earlier and sew them both together once it's done on the one side flip it around and do the same procedure on the opposite now let's set this pillow aside let's do not attach it to the flange yet let's concentrate now on the hinge the part that folds in the middle will unzip the zipper and turn the assembly right-side out this cover is still right now one complete cover however after we sew the hinge in place it'll have two separate sections thus the need for the two zippers we're going to place the foam on top of our cushion cover by approximately a half inch or an inch from the ends because obviously the cover will be tight and the foam will compress slightly so we're placing the bottom where it should go and the back where it should go then angela is going to take a pencil and Mark between the foam very close to the foam almost 8 inch away from the foam she places two marks there's where she's going to create a stitch to create the hinge I know that's not much fabric but it actually turns out fairly well as you can see here the marks are approximately 1/2 inch away from each other which is a pretty good procedure typically we just use a pencil and strike lines along those two marks that we just placed down but and just doing a little bit differently and this works she's using double-sided tape and she's going to use that as the guide to aid her in or stitching however I don't really recommend that because double-sided tape if you leave it on for long periods of time may be difficult to get off the fabric I'd rather see you strike a line it is important to be sure that the seam that holds these two plates together is laying flat so angela is using a seam ripper here to make sure that the fabric is folding right on top of the seam because we want those two panels to be directly on top of each other prior to sewing there I guess after thinking about this there is a reason that she's using the double-sided tape instead of striking a line because if she strikes the line with a pencil that will be obvious it'll be seen using double side tape like this you can just peel it off after you're done sewing though you could use a soapstone pencil as well as long as a soapstone pencil is visible depending on the color of the fabric it's important that you sew at least a half inch away from the stitch line that holds these two plates together do not start right on top of it go a half inch or a full inch away from the stitch line and be sure to reverse the beginning and also reverse at the end here and just making sure that panels are laying directly on top of each other as she's sewing and she's using that double-sided tape that she has not peeled the transfer paper off of as a guide to keep her stitch straight as you come to the other end be sure to stop exactly the same as you did at the beginning at least a half inch or more away from the stitch that holds the plates together now simply repeat that same procedure for the line that's approximately a half inch away from the other after you're done sewing be sure to remove the transfer paper and the glue from the fabric now don't leave it on there overnight there we go okay now let's sew the headrest to the flange this is obviously an optional step if you didn't choose to have a headrest skip this chapter it is extremely important to place at least one row of double-sided tape inside the middle of the flange we're going to place two rows of a double sided tape inside this flange because if the flange moves while you're sewing the head rest on it's a disaster trust me and here towards the very end of that flange replacing another row the second row of double-sided tape to help hold the flange in place if you don't have double-sided tape you could use straight pins I recommend the double-sided tape highly as always now let's measure up from the actual cover by approximately one inch and strike a line do this carefully because if your pillow is sewing on crooked you will notice it when the cover is complete so be sure to measure carefully and then place double-sided tape on that and Angela's checking one more time to make sure that the double-sided tape is straight with the actual cover if you were careful and lined up any patterns if your cover has patterns you want to be sure that you're sewing the pillow on appropriately so that it looks best that's what Angela is checking now all right now we'll peel off the transfer paper of the double sided tape on top of the flange and we'll carefully base the pillow so that it is flush with the edges of the cover the pillow may be slightly different in size hopefully it's not oversized it's just better for it to be under size than oversize we made it so that it was exactly the same width as the cover and she's basting the one side of the pillow to the double-sided tape and then she's checking to make sure the pillow is straight again always a good idea flip it over and baste the other side just like we did on the opposite side once you're happy take it to the sewing machine and sew approximately 1/8 inch from the fold underneath the pillow securing it to the flange and also closing the pillow up permanently all the way to the other side reverse to lock the stitch in place when you begin and also reverse at the end all right we're done let's take a look at the other side looks good now all we have to do is insert the foam and there's an easy way to do that and there's a way to protect the foam from moisture using silk film we're going to show you about that next if your cushion is used indoors it's probably not necessary to use silk film but if your cushion is used outdoors and you're using an antimicrobial polyurethane foam we highly recommend using silk film to help protect the foam from the moisture we've cut the silk film to approximately 24 inches larger than the entire sheet of foam and this silk film is folded in half we call that a center fold so she unfolds it and then wraps it around the entire foam another advantage to using silk is not just the fact that it protects the foam from moisture but it also makes it a lot easier to insert the foam into the cushion cover so we're going to show you how that's done that's the one reason we're using it for this text is mainly just show you how easy it is to insert the foam into a cover that's obviously going to compress the foam but as discussed earlier it's also great for a moisture barrier we're just using a shop-vac and we've inserted the end of the hose in between the silk film onto the cushion and notice how the cushion compresses nicely and the silk film wraps it up now the cushion is a lot smaller and much easier to insert into a cushion cover now just remove the vacuum and the foam slowly expands and you can position all of the silk film so that it's covering or completely inside the cushion and then just simply zip the zipper shut that's how easy it is to insert foam with the silk film it can also be done without it it's just a little bit tougher even after we zipped it here the foam is still expanding the air is 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